Richard Ouzounian
Toronto Star

LYON, France–Some come to prowl the ruins of the Roman theatre, others flock to the museums. But for many tourists, Lyon means food. A great number of France's most highly-touted gourmet palaces cluster in and around the city and although the price tag at many may be high, that doesn't mean you still can't eat brilliantly and reasonably.

FRIDAY NIGHT

COMPTOIR DU BOEUF; 3 PLACE NEUVE SAINT JEAN; 33 4 78 92 69 27: This charming place may look like dozens of the other bouchons that clutter the streets, but the food is special. It's a no-frills place where little English is spoken, but the prix fixe menus are a bargain. The cheapest (three courses, $25) is the most authentic, with Lyonnaise specialties like a salad rich with cubed bacon, a steaming casserole of tripe and superb bread pudding.

SATURDAY MORNING

LES HALLES DE LYON; 102 COURS LAFAYETTE; 33 4 78 62 39 33: Imagine the St. Lawrence Market after a gourmet makeover and you'd have a good idea of this culinary heaven where more than 60 merchants sell everything from croissants to fois gras, all available in sample-sized portions. If you're feeling timid, just grab demi-baguettes slathered with butter then layered with Brie (about $3.50). Bliss.

SATURDAY AFTERNOON

GIRAUDET; 2 RUE DU COLONEL CHAMBONNET; 33 4 72 77 98 58: Casual, but very chic, this place specializes in delicious soups and quenelles, the lighter-than-air dumplings of chicken or fish. The most expensive thing here is a generous dish of Quenelles de brochet baked with a lobster sauce. It's $15 and one of the richest (but tastiest) things you'll ever eat.

SATURDAY NIGHT

RESTAURANT LA VOÛTE, CHEZ LÉA; 11 PLACE ANTONIN GOURJU; 33 4 78 42 01 33: This is the last of the classic places run by one of the original "Mères de Lyon," the women who combined the warmth of home cooking with the sophistication of restaurant cuisine. It's always packed with locals, enjoying dishes like the classic Poulet au vinaigre, with its accompanying delices de macaronis en gratin. A four-course dinner will cost $45, tax and tip included.

SUNDAY MORNING

HOTEL LE ROYAL LYON; 20 PLACE BELLECOUR; 33 4 78 37 57 31: This luxurious hotel in the centre of Lyon is the "finishing school," as it were, for the Institut Paul Bocuse of International Hotel Management. You get well-trained staff and a kitchen team who've studied with the master. This all comes together beautifully at breakfast where the pastries, omelettes and fruit are all prepared and presented to perfection. You can eat as little as you like, but for $30 you can have everything on the menu!

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

BRASSERIE LE NORD; 18 RUE NEUVE; 33 4 72 10 69 69: Bocuse is probably the most famous name in French food and Lyon is his home, where he runs one grand restaurant and five bistros. The most affordable way to experience his cuisine is at one of the bistros; Le Nord was the first and remains the most authentic.

Order a la carte and sample the regional sausages and soups or, for $35 enjoy a three-course meal with blanquette de veau or poulet de Bresse.